October feels like the end of the growing season on many UK allotments, but it is also a useful planting month. Autumn rain usually returns, temperatures cool and empty summer beds can be put back to work. The trick is to choose crops that genuinely tolerate short days and cold soils, rather than treating October as another April. In Sheffield and other inland northern areas, conditions can change quickly, so an outdoor sowing that succeeds on a mild coastal plot may struggle where frost arrives early. This guide explains what to sow or plant now, what to grow under cover and what is better left until spring.

Understand the difference between sowing and planting

Planting an established onion set or garlic clove is not the same as asking a tiny seed to germinate in cooling soil. Garlic and autumn onion sets can put down roots before winter and resume strong growth in spring. Many salad seeds, by contrast, germinate only slowly once temperatures and light levels fall. October advice should therefore distinguish direct sowing outdoors, planting sets, and sowing into an unheated greenhouse or polytunnel. Check the conditions on your own plot: saturated soil, a shady bed or repeated frost will limit options. Even under cover, winter crops often grow slowly because daylight, not just warmth, is in short supply.

Garlic: one of the best autumn choices

October is a good time to plant many garlic varieties in the UK. Break a firm bulb into individual cloves shortly before planting and use the largest healthy cloves for the crop. Put each clove pointed end upwards, generally with its tip several centimetres beneath the soil surface, adjusting for your soil and supplier instructions. Space cloves so mature bulbs have room to develop, and choose an open, well-drained bed. Garlic dislikes sitting in winter waterlogging. Certain varieties benefit from a period of cold for proper bulb formation, but not all types respond identically; purchase garlic intended for cultivation rather than supermarket garlic of uncertain origin. Keep the bed weed-free through winter and early spring.

Autumn onion sets

Overwintering onion sets are another sensible choice. Look for varieties marketed specifically for autumn planting, rather than assuming every spring onion set will survive winter. Set the small bulbs into prepared ground with the tip just showing or lightly covered according to the type, and space them so you can weed between plants. Birds sometimes pull newly planted sets from loose soil; check after planting and use a suitable temporary cover if needed. A sheltered, free-draining bed gives them the best start. They establish roots in autumn, grow slowly in winter and put on size as light levels improve. Avoid pushing sets into heavy waterlogged clay where they may rot before spring.

Shallots and other alliums

Some shallot varieties are suitable for autumn planting, but others are intended for spring, so the variety label matters. Where autumn planting is recommended, prepare the soil as carefully as for onions and give sets enough space to develop a cluster of bulbs. Keep garlic, onion and shallot beds weed-free: competing growth can reduce the size and quality of the eventual harvest. Don't repeatedly add strong, fresh manure immediately before planting these crops. Instead, use ground that was improved previously with well-rotted organic matter. Good drainage and steady growth are more important than heavy feeding at this stage. If your ground remains wet all winter, consider spring planting for varieties that permit it.

Broad beans for overwintering

Hardy broad bean varieties, including the familiar Aquadulce type, can be sown in suitable parts of the UK during October and November. They may survive winter as sturdy young plants and crop earlier than spring sowings, although frost, wind and waterlogged soil can cause losses. Choose a variety sold for autumn sowing and sow into a prepared, well-drained bed at the depth and spacing recommended on the packet. On exposed plots, use a sheltered bed and have fleece ready for severe weather. Mice may take freshly sown beans, so protective mesh can be useful in problem areas. In colder northern sites, some growers have better results waiting until late winter and raising plants under cover.

Peas: only selected hardy varieties

It is misleading to recommend sowing all peas outside in October. Some hardy round-seeded varieties can be autumn sown in mild or sheltered UK locations, but performance is variable and wet winters are especially difficult. Wrinkled-seeded varieties are generally better saved for spring. If you want to experiment, use a cultivar specifically recommended for autumn sowing and start with a small trial row rather than filling the whole bed. Firm protection against mice and pigeons may be necessary. On a cold or exposed allotment, postponing peas until conditions improve is often the more reliable option. A calendar is useful, but soil temperature and drainage should make the final decision.

Winter spinach and hardy salad leaves

Early October may still provide an opportunity to sow winter spinach, lamb's lettuce or selected hardy salad mixes, especially in a greenhouse or polytunnel. Germination slows as soil cools, so it is easier to establish plants before the shortest days. Sow thinly into moist compost or a prepared bed, then keep the surface just damp while seedlings emerge. Once established, plants may offer small pickings during milder spells or grow strongly again in late winter. In a dark, freezing polytunnel they will not grow quickly simply because a roof is overhead. Ventilate on mild days to reduce condensation, and inspect leaves for slugs before they cause serious damage.

Winter lettuce and oriental greens

Certain hardy lettuce varieties can be grown under cover through autumn and winter, although a deep freeze may damage them. Mizuna, mibuna, mustard greens and pak choi may establish in early autumn, but October sowings become increasingly uncertain as the month progresses. They also respond to day length and temperature, so don't promise rapid winter harvests. Sow small amounts at intervals that match your available light and protection. Keep plants well spaced for airflow and harvest outer leaves gently without stripping the growing point. If you have young plug plants ready to go, planting them out may be more dependable than starting fresh seed in a cold greenhouse late in October.

Radishes and spring onions: realistic expectations

Quick-growing radishes may still be worth sowing in an early-October polytunnel during mild weather, but the description 'quick' becomes misleading once days shorten. Root growth can stall and leaves may become vulnerable to slug damage. Spring onions from seed also become slow; established clumps may continue to provide modest pickings if protected. Rather than sowing large amounts, try a short row as an experiment and keep notes. This is a useful time to learn how your particular soil and structure perform in autumn. Save most seed for spring if the first sowing has not germinated reliably or if the compost stays wet and cold.

What about carrots, beetroot and turnips?

Many online October sowing lists include root crops that are unlikely to mature outdoors before winter in much of the UK. Ordinary carrots and beetroot are generally better sown earlier in the year, and late October is not a reliable time for starting a fresh outdoor crop. In a heated or highly sheltered setup some gardeners experiment with baby leaves or small roots, but that is not the same as a normal allotment harvest. Turnips and other roots are similarly constrained by shortening days. Rather than planting seed with little chance of success, concentrate on protecting and harvesting roots already growing, clearing their beds and planning a timely early-season sowing next year.

The role of a polytunnel or greenhouse

An unheated polytunnel provides shelter from rain and wind and may protect against moderate frost, but it does not create summer daylight. Soil may be a little warmer than outdoors in sunshine and much colder overnight than newcomers expect. Use it to establish winter salads, protect pots and hold young plants through difficult weather. Water less frequently as growth slows and open doors or vents on mild mornings to dry condensation. A thermometer with minimum and maximum readings is a useful investment. Pay attention to how damp beds stay between waterings. If the compost is wet several centimetres down, there is usually no need to add more just because a weekly watering day has arrived.

Preparing a bed for October planting

Remove summer crop remains, especially material showing disease, and pull out perennial weeds before you plant. Lightly fork a compacted patch if necessary, but avoid working saturated soil because you can smear and damage its structure. Apply well-rotted compost as a surface mulch where appropriate, leaving planting spaces clear. Garlic and onions prefer firm, fertile ground that drains reasonably well rather than a freshly dug trench of loose, rich material. Label rows with crop, variety and planting date. If you are rotating crops, note where alliums grew previously so you can avoid repeatedly returning them to the same small area. Soil health improves through consistent care, not frantic digging every autumn.

Managing slugs, birds and winter losses

October crops can face different pests from summer crops. Slugs remain active in mild damp spells and may destroy delicate salad seedlings. Pigeons can damage peas and brassicas, while mice may dig up beans. Inspect frequently and use well-secured mesh where appropriate. Remove hiding places next to vulnerable seedlings without eliminating every wildlife habitat on the allotment. Use barriers carefully so animals cannot become trapped beneath netting. Frost cloth can be helpful during severe cold, but it must be fixed down and checked after windy weather. No winter planting is guaranteed; allow for some losses, especially where ground is wet or exposed.

What should wait until spring?

Courgettes, French beans, runner beans, cucumbers, sweetcorn and tomatoes need warmer conditions and stronger light for normal growth. Starting them outdoors in October is unsuitable in the UK. Even indoors, raising tender seedlings months too early can produce weak, leggy plants before it is safe to plant them outside. Most maincrop carrots, beetroot and summer brassicas also belong on a more suitable seasonal schedule. Use the quieter weeks to clean trays, test germination of stored seed and plan succession sowings. The best gardening decision is sometimes to wait rather than plant something simply because a bed looks empty.

Frequently asked October questions

Can I plant potatoes in October? Specially prepared seed potatoes for protected Christmas cropping are usually started earlier in summer; October planting is late and frost remains a serious risk. Can I sow spinach now? In early October, a hardy variety under cover may establish, but growth will be slow. Can I plant supermarket garlic? Garden varieties are generally more reliable and easier to match to local conditions. Will broad beans survive snow? Hardy varieties tolerate cold, but prolonged saturation, severe weather and exposure can still kill plants. Do I need to heat my polytunnel? Not for many hardy winter salads, though they will grow much more slowly.

A practical October growing plan

Prioritise garlic and properly selected autumn onion sets in the best-drained beds. If you have a sheltered area, trial hardy broad beans and perhaps winter salads under cover. Continue harvesting the crops already established, and protect them from cold rather than starting too many unlikely sowings. Keep a record of what succeeds on your own allotment: that will tell you more than any blanket planting calendar. October can still be productive, but success comes from matching the crop to the weather, not pretending the seasons have stopped changing. Keep smiling, keep shining, keep gardening with Ben.