How to Successfully Grow Rhubarb in the UK: Expert Tips & Tricks

How to Successfully Grow Rhubarb in the UK: Expert Tips & Tricks

Whether you dream of tangy rhubarb crumbles or sweet homemade preserves, rhubarb stands as a quintessential staple in many British gardens. Adaptable and generally low-maintenance, this robust perennial can remain productive for a decade or more with the right approach. In this guide, you’ll find expert tips and tricks for selecting the best varieties, preparing your soil, caring for rhubarb throughout the season, and even forcing stems for an early harvest—all tailored to the UK’s climate.

1. Introduction: Why Rhubarb Thrives in the UK

A plant of enduring popularity, rhubarb does especially well in the cool, damp conditions typical of Britain’s climate. Once established, it:

Offers Seasonal Reliability: Multiple harvests over spring and early summer.
Demands Modest Upkeep: Basic soil enrichment and watering often suffice.
Adapts to Diverse Gardens: Whether a sunny allotment or a partial-shade corner, rhubarb accommodates a range of spots.

By paying attention to soil quality, spacing, and mindful harvesting, growers can look forward to a dependable supply of succulent stalks for many years.

2. Choosing Rhubarb Varieties and Planting Methods

2.1. Best Varieties for UK Gardens

Timperley Early: Favours early cropping—excellent for forcing due to its precocious growth.
Victoria: A longtime favourite, delivering consistently thick stalks with a well-balanced tang.
Glaskins Perpetual: Useful for extended harvesting, offering multiple pickings deep into the season.

2.2. Planting from Crowns or Seeds

Crowns: The usual choice for quick, robust establishment. Most gardeners find it takes 1–2 years to start harvesting well.
Seeds: Suitable if crowns aren’t available, but expect more variability and a longer wait for decent yields.

2.3. Timing the Planting

Late Autumn/Early Spring: Align with the plant’s dormant period and workable soil. Aim to avoid harsh frosts for best root development.

3. Soil Preparation and Planting Steps

Location
- Sunlight: Full sun to partial shade is suitable, with the best yields often found in sunny spots.
- Drainage: Avoid waterlogged areas. If necessary, use raised beds or incorporate grit/organic matter to improve aeration.
Soil Enrichment
- Fertility: Rhubarb is a heavy feeder—dig in compost or well-rotted manure to a depth of ~30 cm before planting.
- pH: Mildly acidic to neutral soils (around pH 6–7) support optimal growth.
Planting the Crown
- Hole Depth: ~30 cm deep, ensuring no root bending.
- Positioning: Place the crown so its top is about 2–3 cm below the surface.
- Spacing: Leave at least 1 metre between crowns for leaf spread.
Initial Watering and Mulch
- Water Thoroughly: Settle the soil around roots, removing air pockets.
- Mulch: Helps maintain soil moisture and temperature, offering weed suppression in early growth phases.

4. Seasonal Rhubarb Care: Feeding, Watering, and More

4.1. Feeding

Spring: Once shoots emerge, top-dress with a balanced fertiliser or compost, fuelling robust stems.
Mid-Season Boost: Light feeding if plants show signs of fatigue after harvests.

4.2. Watering

Consistency: While established rhubarb tolerates moderate drought, consistent watering during hot spells encourages plumper, tastier stalks.
Young Crowns: Keep soil evenly moist in the first year or two for solid root establishment.

4.3. Weed Control

Hand-Remove: Rhubarb’s shallow roots are easily disturbed by tools.
Mulch: A layer of organic matter helps deter weeds and conserve moisture.

4.4. Winter Dormancy

Clearing Debris: Remove old, yellowed leaves, preventing slugs or diseases overwintering.
Frost Hardiness: Crowns usually cope well with UK frosts; a mulch blanket offers extra security in harsher regions.

5. Harvesting Rhubarb: Best Practices

Initial Harvest Caution
- First Season: Limit or skip picking entirely, allowing roots to strengthen.
Main Harvest Season
- Window: Generally April to July.
- Method: Gently pull/twist each stalk near the base, or cut with a clean knife if necessary.
Leaving Enough Foliage
- Reason: The plant relies on remaining leaves for photosynthesis and replenishment.
- Tip: Cease harvesting by mid-summer so the crown can recover for next year.
Disposal of Leaves
- Why: Leaves contain high levels of oxalic acid. They can be composted thoroughly but never eaten.

6. Common Problems and How to Solve Them

Crown Rot
- Signs: Mushy, browning centre.
- Fix: Improve drainage, avoid overwatering, and remove decayed sections.
Slugs & Snails
- Threat: Chew young shoots.
- Solution: Slug pellets, barriers (copper tape, grit), or nightly manual checks.
Rhubarb Blackleg
- Symptoms: Blackened bases of stalks that can rot away.
- Action: Remove infected parts, maintain airy surroundings, and ensure adequate drainage.
Spindly Stalks
- Causes: Under-fertilisation, dryness, or an older crown in need of division.
- Remedy: Provide balanced feed, regular watering, and consider dividing the plant every 5–7 years.

7. Forcing Rhubarb for an Early Harvest

Why Force?
- Benefit: Tender, delicately flavoured pink stems weeks earlier than typical outdoor cropping.
- Taste: Forced stalks are prized for their sweetness and fine texture.
Method
- Cover: In late winter, place a dark pot or tall container over mature crowns (2+ years old).
- Heating: Some place straw or manure around the container for gentle warmth.
- Timing: Around 4–6 weeks under cover, harvest slender pale stalks before they toughen.
Recovery
- Guidance: Don’t force the same crown each year—let it rebuild strength to prevent plant fatigue.

8. Conclusion

Growing rhubarb in the UK blends culinary tradition with straightforward horticulture. By selecting hardy varieties, improving soil with organic matter, watering thoughtfully, and harvesting responsibly, even first-time gardeners can reap a steady supply of tangy stems from spring through early summer. Meanwhile, those craving an extra-early treat can try forcing older crowns for succulent, pastel-pink stalks in late winter. With just a touch of care and these expert tips, rhubarb can become a perennial highlight that consistently graces both your garden and your kitchen table.

9. Top 10 Questions and Answers

Q: When should I plant rhubarb crowns for best results?
A: Late autumn or early spring, when soil is workable and crowns are dormant.
Q: Can I harvest my rhubarb in the first season after planting?
A: Ideally, avoid or keep it minimal. Allow crowns to establish a robust root system in year one.
Q: How do I safely handle rhubarb leaves if they’re poisonous?
A: Oxalic acid makes them inedible, but they can safely decompose in compost over time.
Q: How often should I fertilise my rhubarb?
A: A spring feed once shoots emerge, possibly a second light boost mid-season if needed.
Q: Why are my rhubarb stalks always quite thin?
A: Could be due to poor soil nutrition, inadequate watering, or an aged crown ready for division. Improve feeding or consider replanting if older than 5–7 years.
Q: Do I need to remove rhubarb flowers if they appear?
A: Yes, snap them off immediately to keep the plant focusing on producing stalks rather than seeds.
Q: Is forcing rhubarb harmful to the plant?
A: Not if done occasionally on well-established crowns, allowing them rest years in between.
Q: Can I skip autumn pruning of old foliage?
A: Removing dying leaves helps reduce pest overwintering, so it’s recommended for better hygiene.
Q: When do I stop harvesting each summer?
A: Usually by mid-July; letting the plant photosynthesise and rebuild reserves for the next season is crucial.
Q: What if I only have partial shade for my rhubarb plot?
A: Rhubarb often performs adequately in partial shade, though yields may be slightly smaller than in full sun.

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