🍇 Loganberry Pruning: What Most Gardeners Get Wrong
🌱 Introduction: Why Loganberries Cause So Much Confusion
Loganberries are vigorous, productive hybrids (blackberry × raspberry), and they’re very easy to prune incorrectly. Most problems — tangled canes, poor crops, or plants getting out of control — come from treating loganberries like either raspberries or blackberries, instead of understanding how they actually grow.
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Get the pruning wrong, and you’ll lose fruit or end up with chaos. Get it right, and loganberries are easy to manage and incredibly productive.
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🌳 How Loganberries Grow (The Rule Most People Miss)
Loganberries fruit on two-year-old canes, just like blackberries:
- Year 1: New canes grow (primocanes) — no fruit
- Year 2: Those canes fruit (floricanes) — then die
❌ Fruited canes will never fruit again
✔️ New canes are next year’s crop
👉 Pruning is about removing the old and training the new, every single year.
❌ What Most Gardeners Get Wrong
❌ 1. Not removing fruited canes
Leaving old canes in place causes:
- Tangled growth
- Disease build-up
- Shading of new fruiting canes
Fix: Fruited canes must be removed completely.
❌ 2. Keeping too many new canes
More canes does not mean more fruit.
Too many canes cause:
- Smaller berries
- Poor airflow
- Weak growth
Fix: Fewer, stronger canes give better crops.
❌ 3. Not training canes early
Letting canes sprawl on the ground leads to:
- Knots and tangles
- Broken growth
- Difficult pruning later
Fix: Tie in canes while they’re young and flexible.
❌ 4. Treating loganberries like raspberries
Cutting everything down (raspberry-style) removes next year’s crop entirely.
Fix: Only fruited canes are removed — never all canes.
❌ 5. Pruning at the wrong time
Winter-only pruning or random cutting causes confusion and lost yield.
Fix: Prune at the correct stages through the year.
⏰ When to Prune Loganberries (UK Guide)
🌞 After fruiting (main prune)
Best time: Late summer to early autumn
- Fruited canes are easy to identify
- New canes are visible and flexible
This is the most important pruning window.
❄️ Late winter (tidy and shape)
Best time: January–February
- Final shaping
- Shorten side shoots
- Remove any missed dead canes
Avoid pruning during hard frosts.
✂️ How to Prune Loganberries Correctly (Step by Step)
1️⃣ Remove all fruited canes at ground level
After harvest:
- Cut every cane that carried fruit right down to the base
- These canes are brown, woody, and often brittle
Leaving them is the biggest mistake gardeners make.
2️⃣ Select the best new canes
From this year’s growth:
- Keep 4–6 strong, healthy canes per plant
- Remove thin, weak, or excess shoots
Quality beats quantity.
3️⃣ Train new canes onto supports
- Tie canes onto wires or a trellis
- Space them evenly
- Keep them off the ground
Training now prevents a tangled mess later.
4️⃣ Shorten side shoots (late winter)
- Cut side shoots back to 2–3 buds
- Concentrates fruit close to the main cane
- Makes harvesting easier
🧵 Best Training System (And Why It Matters)
A simple wire system works best:
- Old (fruiting) canes trained one way
- New canes trained the opposite way
This makes it obvious what to cut each year and almost eliminates mistakes.
🌱 Young vs Established Loganberry Plants
🌱 First year
- Focus on training
- Don’t worry about fruit
- Build structure
🌿 Established plants
- Annual removal of fruited canes
- Careful selection of new canes
- Regular tying-in
Early discipline = easy pruning for life.
🍇 How Correct Pruning Improves Crops
Correct pruning:
- Improves airflow and light
- Reduces disease
- Produces larger berries
- Makes harvesting far easier
- Keeps plants manageable
Messy plants are nearly always poorly pruned plants.
🧠 Key Takeaway
What most gardeners get wrong with loganberries is simple:
They don’t remove fruited canes and they don’t train new growth early enough.
Remember this rule every year:
- Old canes out
- Best new canes kept
- Growth trained early
Do that, and loganberries stop being difficult and start being one of the easiest, most productive soft fruits you can grow.